Lowe goes back in time to keep it minimal

David Lowe didn’t just turn back the clock - he kicked it all the way back to the bronze age, our New South Wales correspondent Rick Allen reports.

The Mudgee winemaker, always one to try new things and a passionate believer in organic and biodynamic practices, has produced a shiraz using techniques he says are 4000 years old, the Newcastle Herald wine scribe reports.

The Lowe Amphora Shiraz 2023 ($65) was fermented in a clay amphora vessel buried in the ground alongside the vines - a method he describes as “minimal intervention at its purest”.

“I’m always experimenting with new techniques, but this one blew me away,” he said. “Digging the hole for the huge terracotta amphorae was no mean feat, I can tell you.

“The earth next to the Block 5 vineyard comprises stone, shale and quartz … a tough dig; real blister material.”

To create the wine, the best grapes from Lowe’s Block 5 vineyard were hand-harvested on days aligned with the biodynamic calendar.

Half of the fruit was whole-bunch pressed, with the remainder crushed and fermented in three 500-litre terracotta amphorae, buried underground, five metres from the vines, for nine months.

Lowe has been experimenting with amphorae since 2021, without actually going this far before.

An amphora (plural amphorae) is a large vessel, usually clay, used to ferment and age wine - think of it as an oversized terracotta jar with a narrow neck and two handles -historically used by ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Romans to store and transport liquids.

“These days, it's popular to ferment wine in oak barrels or steel tanks,” Lowe explained. “Amphorae sit somewhere between an oak barrel and a steel tank in terms of oxidisation.

“Steel keeps oxygen completely out, oak allows a little in, but the amphora allows micro-oxygenation through the pores of the clay. It’s a subtle but important difference.

“It doesn’t impart flavour but slightly alters the wine’s texture and mouthfeel.

“By burying the vessel in the earth, you naturally regulate the wine’s temperature in with the earth.

“We packed around the amphorae with peat moss to minimise the contraction and expansion of the soil, which risks breaking the clay pot.”

And the result?

“With the earth next to our Block 5 pretty solid, it led to a raw, earthy style that is totally unique to the site, so it was worth the hard graft.

“We now have three amphorae buried and are so delighted with the results.”

Vintage 2023 in Mudgee was exceptional, with a long, slow ripening period.

“It was nearly impossible to make bad wine in 2023,” Lowe said.

So if you want to step back into the bronze age, get your Roman sandals on and try your first amphora wine.

In Lowe’s own words … “a raw, yet easy-to-drink shiraz, with great flavour and aroma that’s true to the earth from whence it came - upfront, powerful and fruit forward”.