Are wine drinkers falling out of love with high-end Bordeaux and Champagne?

Is the world falling out of love with premium French wines?

The value of French wine exports has fallen for a second year even as shipped volumes crept up, with consumers favouring more affordable bottles, British wine magazine Decanter has reported.

Data shows that Champagne exports slumped, while demand for more modestly priced sparkling wines increased.

Foreign buyers favoured more affordable bottles from the Loire Valley and Provence over high-end Bordeaux wines.

The value of wine exports fell 3% to €10.9 billon last year, French wine and spirits export agency FEVS said.

That remains the third-highest on record, as greater export demand for regional bubbles and still wine without a geographical denomination partly made up for dipping sales for Champagne and Bordeaux.

The volume of export shipments increased 0.7% to 124.1 million cases, relatively stable.

French wine exports overall faced a double impact from inflation and economic uncertainty, and a shift away from the most expensive wines to more affordable options, FEVS president Gabriel Picard told Decanter.

"There is undoubtedly a shift in consumption patterns, and maybe the end of a phenomenon of ultra-premiumisation," Picard said.

"Products with higher added value, at least the core of the range, have held up rather well or even progressed, for example in the case of sparkling wines, whereas the very expensive Champagnes have tended to decline."

Shipments to the UK, the second-largest export market for French winemakers, increased 5.4%, while the value of exports fell 3.9% to €1.4bn.

The value of French wine exports to China slumped 17%, and wine trade with Singapore and Hong Kong also declined.

Champagne, which remains France’s biggest wine export by value, had a tough year in 2024, with shipments falling 9.7% to 12.4 million cases and export value slipping 8% to €3.86bn.

By contrast, sparkling wines from other regions, including Crémant de Loire and Crémant d’Alsace, saw export volume rising 8% to 10.3 million cases, and the value jumping 9.5% to €426m.

Bordeaux exports fell 4.5% in volume to 16.6 million cases, while the value slipped 1.4% to €5.28bn.

The Loire Valley reported higher export volumes in 2024, while Provence also sold more wine abroad.

"We see that the mid-range tends to be more resilient, that goes for the reds and the whites," Picard said. "The other trend that we see is there tends to be some sort of decline in consumption of reds, and good resilience or progress for the white and rosé wines."

Image: Andrii Omelnytskiy, Scop.io