A fusion of flavours is a Sydney feast for the senses

Nikkei cuisine is a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavours.

It is served in an elevated form at Callao, one of the standout restaurants in the Streets of Barangaroo gourmet precinct on the Sydney waterfront.

Opened just over a year ago, the flavours on offer at the 104-seat eatery have clearly hit the target.

There is a hip young crowd on hand: both the customers and the very efficient servers.

And the quality of the food, with the two distinctive cuisines delivering intriguing combinations, is matched by a drinks list peppered with cocktails, Japanese whiskies, and some astutely chosen wines (think names like O’Leary Walker, Bream Creek, Giant Steps and Moss Wood by the glass).

Japanese Peruvian cuisine is a global trend right now and Nikkei is the word used to describe immigrants of Japanese origin - of which there are many in Peru.

Nikkei food is characterized by its use of the wide variety of ingredients available to Peru, including aji amarillo, an emulsion of the South American chilli pepper.

The Callao menu blends traditional techniques with vibrant ingredients - every dish on the Chef's Selections tasting menu ($119 per person) offered myriad flavours, but with a real sense of cohesive style.

You are taken out of your comfort zone - but remain very comfortable.

Mainstays include fresh seafood like tiradito, marinated in zesty Peruvian sauces, and Baby octopus with tomato, green olives, saffron potatoes, chickpeas and chili oil.

 

After some warm edamame beans with smoked salt, our starters were a stunning scampi tartare with crispy rice, truffle mayo, avocado puree, pickled jalapeno and Siberian caviar - a very upmarket fish finger (above) - and a delightfully tangy salmon ceviche with aji amarllo, leche de tigre (a zesty Peruvian marinade made with lime juice, fish, and spices), toasted corn and sweet potato puree (below).

Then came Skull Island tiger prawns with aji panca (red pepper) bisque, sea urchin mayo and tabiko (flying fish roe) mayo (below); and Wagyu tri-tip with smoked date teriyaki, aji amarillo mayo and togarishi spices. Both extremely moreish. 

Main course is a chuck tail flap steak with with yuzu koshu butter, shitake jus and house mustard, served with with hasselback potato, quezo fresca, aji amarillo and dried sisho (below).

The final touch is "cheesecake" with toasted corn, finger lime, milk skin and avocado ice cream,

Tradition with a few twists and turns. Delightful flavours; great service, sensible portions. Highly recommended.  

For those wondering, Callao is a Peruvian seaside city and region on the Pacific Ocean in the Lima metropolitan area.

 

Callao is open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and is at 100 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, Sydney. callao.com.au.

Images: Anna Kucera, Winsor Dobbin

# The writer was hosted by Callao