Tahbilk celebrates a century of family custodianship

For 100 years, five generations of the Purbrick family have been major players in the evolution of the Australian wine industry.

While you may not have heard of the Purbricks, you have certainly heard of the winery that their family has guided for a century; the beautiful and historic Tahbilk in Central Victoria.

The Purbricks got together recently to celebrate their 100-year stewardship, and invited a few media along to taste some wines produced over several decades.

Established in 1860 Tahbilk is one of Australia's most beautiful and historic family owned wineries. Located in the Nagambie Lakes region (120kms north of Melbourne), one of the nation's premium viticultural areas.

The property comprises some 1,214 hectares of river flats with a frontage of 11km to the Goulburn River and 8km of permanent backwaters and creeks.

The story begins in London in the early 1920s with an offer to Reginald Purbrick MP of a glass of Chateau Tahbilk brandy, accompanied by the words ‘This might be of interest to you, Purbrick."

Reg decided to purchase the property sight unseen in 1925.

Reg’s son Eric, who inherited Tahbilk as well as his father’s love of wine, returned to the estate in 1932 amid the Depression, forgoing a law degree.

His son John quietly rebuilt the marketing arm of the business whilst encouraging his son Alister (below) to become the first formally trained winemaker in the family. Alister talks of "mid-weight elegance", a signature of all the family's wines.

Now it is the next generation, led by Alister’s daughter Hayley, who have brought the winery into the 21st century, ensuring the family leaves a sustainable legacy for future generations.

This is a business about family, about the environment and about making wines that sing, rather than shout. 

Brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, sons and daughters: they are the world's largest single producers of the Rhone Valley white variety marsanne, some of the vines of which dates back to 1927. 

Marsanne can be enjoyed young or mature - maybe try a bottle over Christmas.

On our recent visit we sampled wines ranging from 1962 to current releases. They included the Estate and 1927 Marsanne Ranges, the Estate/Bin/Reserve and ESP (Eric Stevens Purbrick) shirazes, the 1860 Vines shirazes, Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz blends and Estate, Bin, Reserve and ESP Cabernet Sauvignons. 

These are wines with a serious sense of place, that are made to be enjoyed with family, friends and good company. 

I took copious notes, but will share that the honesty of the wines, and the deft winemaking shone through vintages and varieties. 

Today, Tahbilk is a leader in sustainable winemaking, having been certified net carbon zero 12 years ago. 

You can visit its historic and atmospheric cellar door, dine in the impressive restaurant and walk the eco wetlands. Maybe try, or buy, some of the family centenary special releases.

The oldest family-owned winery and vineyard in Victoria retains a very special charm - and offers a family welcome. 

See www.tahbilk.com.au.

The writer was a guest of Tahbilk