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Wednesday 2 October 2024

Going Spanish on a Bangkok rooftop


Bangkok may be south-east Asia’s street food mecca, but you might be surprised what else can be found in this crazy capital, our globetrotting correspondent Rod Eime reports. 

Some time ago, we sampled excellent Indian and Mexican food at the Rembrandt Hotel in Soi 18. Quite satisfactory Middle Eastern food can be found in the multilevel MBK shopping complex at Siam along with all the cosmopolitan fast food brands we’re used to at home.

My last couple of visits introduced me to the authentic Spanish tapas served by visiting chefs at the brand-new Melia INNSiDE Bangkok Sukhumvit a stone’s throw from the On Nut BTS station.

Walk-ins are welcome at Luz Bangkok on the 33rd floor. Spanish chef de cuisine Juan Ignacio García Racionero, who was born in Madrid and has honed his craft in some of Spain’s top kitchens, takes us on a culinary crusade through Spain, with a dynamic variety of local Thai ingredients in the mix, too. 

My dining companion seems too distracted by chef Juan’s movie-star looks to make up her mind, so we say, “Just bring it!” and throw ourselves at his mercy. As it turned out, I’m glad I was hungry.

Against a backdrop of Bangkok’s illuminated skyline, the dishes just kept coming:  ‘Gilda de Pulpo' grilled octopus, olives, pickled paprika and olive oil, 

Sardine Ahumada Con Lima’ smoked sardine with lime and avocado cream, ‘Gambas Al Ajillo’ sauteed prawns with chilli, garlic and olive oil, and ‘Ensalada De Salmorejo Burrata’ burrata with cold tomato creamy soup, anchovy and avocado are among ‘LUZ Tapas’ highlights.

“One of my favourite dishes is the ‘Pulpo a la Parrilla’,” Juan tells us. He adds mango, chilli and smoked paprika purée to create a contrast of sweet, salty, and spicy flavours, offering a fresh take on the traditional Spanish recipe.

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Just over my shoulder is the mandatory cocktail bar which beckons me to challenge it and in no time the bar resounds to the satisfying rattle of the silver cocktail shaker.

To say every dish is beautifully presented and delicious even for an unfamiliar palate goes without saying. Much as I love Bangkok's cornucopia of street food, it just goes to show this amazing city has a lot up its sleeve.

DOING IT

LUZ is open daily from 4pm until midnight.

For further information and to make a reservation, visit https://www.melia.com/en/hotels/thailand/bangkok/innside-bangkok-sukhumvit/restaurants/luz-bangkok or call on +66 2 340 5499.


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