Taking a step back in time

It is a magnificent hotel that should be on the agenda of anyone visiting Stellenbosch - the heart of Afrikanderdom. 

Dating back over 200 years to 1802 the Oude Werf Hotel is an artful union of old and new - the older part is the oldest continually operating inn in South Africa. 

This boutique hotel gets everything right. When I arrived early and feeling unwell, a room was quickly prepared for me. Impressive. And stylish. 

The staff are slick and almost entirely black. The guests are, with two exceptions I've noted, are white. 

The vast majority of those staying are well-heeled and in their fifties and sixties. Many speak Afrikaans. Only, one, possibly, is gay. 

Neil Diamond's Hot August Night is playing on the audio. Some are reading Die Burger. 

For this still group, at least, it is as if South Africa has not changed one iota. 

The Oude Werf Hotel, 30 Church Street, Stellenbosch, 7600. South Africa. www.OudeWerfHotel.co.za