There
are many good reasons to put together your own wine collection.
You
might want to always have a small selection of good bottles on hand
for when friends drop by. Or perhaps you want to put away some
high-quality bottles to enjoy in a decade or more.
Or maybe you
consider that storing some bottles sensibly might be a good
investment.
Whatever
your reason for wanting to start a cellar, it pays to move carefully.
Poor planning can result in both disappointment and financial loss.
What
do you plan to collect? Where do you plan to store the wines? Are
you investing in drinking pleasure, or for profit? So many questions
to be addressed.
Most
people choose to cellar wines that they plan to drink down the track.
But if you are a lover of big Barossa shiraz right now, how do you
know your tastes will not have changed in 10-15 years time? Today's
shiraz drinker could be tomorrow's pinot noir aficionado.
A
purpose-built cellar, or even a wine fridge, can prove expensive for
beginners, but an awful lot of wine has been ruined by being stored
in a garage or under the bed.
Storing
wine in a well-insulated shed in cool-climate Tasmania may work just
fine, but in tropical Queensland it could be a recipe for disaster.
Consistency of temperature is a key to maintaining wines in peak
condition, but storage in air-conditioned, temperature-controlled
facilities can be costly.
Wines
you choose to drink now, say from organic, biodynamic or “natural”
producers might not be what the investment market is looking for and
wines that are low in sulphur are often best enjoyed in their youth.
If making a profit is your (very optimistic) aim, it might pay to
take professional advice on which wines to put away.
And
are you prepared to take a risk on notoriously unreliable corks? Some
collectors will tell stories of over 20% spoilage over a period of
years due to faulty corks or premature oxidation. Yet markets in Asia
and the United States still generally prefer wines under cork to
those bottled under screw caps.
Leading
US wine writer James Laube recently wrote in the magazine Wine
Spectator: “Wines
you buy to lay down should have some sort of rhyme and reason, but in
the end most don't.
“Wines
are often more impulse purchases than careful consideration. And it's
far easier to accumulate wines on whim than strategise. There's also
something about the hunt that leads otherwise rational people to buy
more than they need.”
All
things to consider before you take a big jump into the unknown and
start your collection.
I
hope I haven't scared you off, however. There can be great pleasure
in selecting a perfectly matured wine from your cellar and sharing it
with friends – and the wines you cellar do not have be
expensive icons like Penfolds Grange (the new 2012 release sells for
$850 a bottle) or Henschke's single vineyard Hill of Grace Shiraz,
which is only marginally cheaper.
Wine
Ark, Australia’s largest wine storage provider, recently released
its list of Australia's most collected wines for 2016, with Penfolds
far-more-affordable Bin 389 topping the list by knocking off big
brother Grange after nine years in the top spot.
Wine
Ark’s list of the 50 most collectable wines, released every three
years, has become a “go-to” guide on the subject and the results
are a clear indication of trends when it comes to cellaring.
“The
list presents a genuine reflection of what Australian wines are being
cellared in this country in almost real time,” said wine educator
Jeremy Oliver.
John
Cuff, Wine Ark chief executive officer, said Penfolds Grange was
arguably the most collectable Australian wine.
“We
know its amazing power and finesse, steeped in history; however it
sells for a hefty price,” Cuff said. “The Penfolds 389 Shiraz
Cabernet is considered by most collectors to be a cellar staple. I
believe you would be hard pressed finding a cellar that doesn’t
have at least a few bottles of 389 and our results clearly illustrate
this.”
In
other words, wines are being stored as much for future drinking
pleasure as for investment purposes.
My
advice is this: Go
ahead and build your cellar; whether it is in your home, or located
elsewhere. Choose enough space to assemble an interesting collection,
but do not be overambitious so your collection overwhelms you, or
costs more than you can afford.
It
is far better to start small, choosing maybe just a few six packs of
wines that you know you will enjoy over the next two or three years,
and then expand slowly.
Names to consider: Clonakilla, Mount Pleasant, Tyrrell's, Best's Great Western, Wynn's Coonawarra Estate, Yalumba, Elderton and SC Pannell. And for bargain basement buys: Larry Cherubino Wines, Bleasdale, Alkoomi, and Hay Shed Hill.
If
you don’t have a lot of experience with older wines, or aren’t
even sure if you like them, don't put all your vinous eggs in one
basket.
Choose
carefully, even buying labels that you know and trust, or select
wines that have both structure
and complexity. Cellar-worthy wines are usually tannic, acidic,
well-structured and balanced – and usually from well-established
wine regions.
There
are exceptions to every rule, but in Australia reds made from shiraz
and cabernet, or a combination of the two, are considered most
“collectable”, while semillon, riesling and, sometimes,
chardonnay, are whites that develop with age.
Right
now you might enjoy wines from Australia and New Zealand, but as your
budget and experience grow, there are the wines of Bordeaux,
Burgundy, Barolo and Rioja to discover.
Independent retail stores
like Five Way Cellars in Sydney, Boccaccio Cellars in Melbourne and
East End Cellars in Adelaide are good sources of advice.
Campbell
Mattinson, one of Australia's leading wine experts, wrote on the Wine
Front website that: “When
I was first buying wines to cellar I bought too many wines of the
same style, and too many wines that were medium-term agers. I leant
towards quantity rather than quality. Everything in life is a
reaction to what has immediately come before – when I noticed my
mistake, I then swung far the other way, buying a host of long term
wines of high quality (and price).”
So
be prepared to make mistakes, but enjoy the journey and the
discoveries you will make along the way.
Or,
alternatively, if you prefer wines that are young fresh and vibrant
like sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, you probably don't need a cellar at
all.
# This is an edited version of a story that originally appeared in Nourish magazine.