For
almost two decades Australian tourism entrepreneur Simon Currant had
a vision of converting a unique but derelict piece of architecture in
Tasmania into a boutique hotel.
An aerial view of Pumphouse Point |
In
January, after many travails, Currant's dream became reality with the
opening of Pumphouse Point, a striking 18-room property in the
dramatically beautiful and remote wilds of Australia's island state.
A
three-hour drive north-west of the Tasmanian capital of Hobart in the
Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National Park, Pumphouse Point is a
quirky wilderness retreat with a difference; a complete re-imagining
of two brutalist 1940s buildings into a juxtaposition of the old and
the new.
“People
arrive at the property and say: “Is that it?” admits marketing
man Tom Wootton, who has also been known to fill in as a waiter
during busy periods. “Then they check out the views, and the rooms,
and go: “Wow!”
Pumphouse
Point comprises 12 rooms and two lounges located in an old
hydro-electric pumphouse at the end of a 250-metre flume perched over
Australia’s
deepest lake, and a smaller art deco-style shorehouse, with six rooms
and lounge/dining area, overlooking the water.
Hydro
Tasmania built the pumphouse in 1940 to pump water from Lake St Clair
to the nearby Tarraleah power station. It was only used a handful of
times and was decommissioned in the early 1990s, falling into
disrepair. It was back then that Currant, who also developed Cradle
Mountain Lodge, first identified it as an outstanding tourism site.
The
new resort maintains the old exteriors with completely re-built
interiors. Each room has satellite TV, a modern bathroom, and its own
tablet computer with information about the history of the property,
local wildlife, walking tracks and available activities. Powered by
the property's free wi-fi they also have VOIP access and music via
Spotify.
Sitting
in the pumphouse, in front of the roaring fire; it is disturbingly
easy to believe you are at sea, and hours pass quickly as the light
constantly changes on the mountains, Myrtle forests, native pines,
gum trees and rippling waters.
The boutique wilderness
retreat inside a World Heritage-listed area is surrounded by
snow-capped mountains in winter. There is access to the famous
Overland Track walk from the property and suggested treks range from
a 45-minute stroll around the property to an 18-kilometre, seven-hour
climb to the peak of Mount Ida.
The
pleasures here are simple ones; fishing
for brown or rainbow trout, hiking, rowing in drift boats, kayaking
and mountain biking, or maybe a game of boules, but guests are also
encouraged to experience the pumphouse and its remarkable views; to
sit down and wind down with a glass of wine.
Dining
options are, deliberately, limited to a table d'hote menu, with
guests invited to imagine they are attending a chic dinner party.
They mingle in the lounge over complimentary drinks and appetisers
before sitting at communal tables to sample dishes like lemon and
thyme chicken on quinoa with fresh roasted vegetables, or honey and
orange-glazed ham with broccoli salad.
Desserts
include chocolate and beetroot brownies served with fresh raspberries
and berry ice cream. Gluten-free and vegetarian options are
available.
For
those who wish to dine separately in their room or one of the cosy
lounges; each room contains a maxi bar that is more like a larder
with a range of soups, local cheeses, charcuterie meats and smoked
salmon, all from artisanal local producers, that can serve as a
picnic lunch or light dinner.
There
is also a local pub within driving distance at Derwent Bridge for
those looking for a rustic and very different style of Australian
social experience.
There
is a selection of very good – and reasonably priced – Tasmanian
wines, beers and ciders available in rooms, or the lounges at
Pumphouse Point, using an honour system by which guests simply fill
in a form to show what they have consumed.
“One
of the things we try to aim for is 4½ star accommodation but with
six-star service,”
says co-general manager Josh Bradshaw, “but we also make sure
guests have time on their own to explore the wilderness and a haven
to return to.”
Wildlife
lovers will enjoy spotting wallabies, echidnas, quolls, possums,
wombats and Tasmanian devils, which were scared away during
construction but are now flocking back to the areas surrounding the
retreat.
For
the elderly, or less mobile, converted golf carts, known as flume
buggies, are available to provide transport or help move luggage to
and from rooms to the accommodation.
“The
style here is casual and relaxed,” says founder Currant. “Whether
guests are exploring the outdoors or watching the weather from their
lounge, we encourage them to do their own thing at their own pace. We
want it to be a place to relax and reflect.”
Early
indications are that visitors will be a mixture of Tasmanians and
overseas visitors, most staying two nights. Children under 12 years
old are not permitted. Weekend bookings need to be made well in
advance but midweek (when the country roads are quieter anyway) is
easier.
Pumphouse
Point: 1
Lake St Clair Road, Lake St Clair, Tasmania 7140, Australia. +61 428
090 436.
www.pumphousepoint.com.au.
The 18 rooms range in price from $240 to $480 a night, including bed,
breakfast and a range of outdoor activities. Guests can arrive via
road or sea plane and additional activities on offer include white
water rafting, abseiling and scenic flights.
# A version of this story originally appeared in American Express Centurion Magazine.
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