I'm
sitting at one of several dozen riverside cafes sipping on a large,
cold glass of Human Fish, one of the very tasty local boutique beers.
I'm surrounded by a young, laid back crowd, many enjoying white wine
made from local
pinela or zelen grapes, or
taking advantage of the city-wide free wi-fi.
They
are a friendly crowd, and happy to offer some tips to a visitor.
No one seems in a hurry.
It
may be hard to spell and even more difficult to pronounce, but
Ljubljana is one of Europe's prettiest and most accessible cities.
Home to just under 300,000 people, nearly all of its major
attractions are found in an easily traversed pedestrianised
zone on the banks of the delightful Ljubljanica River.
Slovenia's
urbane capital, which is this year celebrating its 2000th
birthday, reminds one of Prague before the crowds descended, or
perhaps Vienna. That's no coincidence as all three cities bear the
imprint of the Slovenian architect and urban planner Joze Plecnik.
This historic and
lively city (there are more than 50,000 student residents) is dotted
with cafes, riverside eateries and markets and has long been a trade
crossroads of Central Europe.
Founded
in Roman times as the settlement of Emona, Ljubljana is today one of
the most progressive cities in the former Yugoslavia (Slovenia has
been independent since 1991) and was recently named as European Green
Capital for 2016 by the
European
Commission.
It
could also be a contender for hippest capital thanks to innovations
like
Metelkova,
a notorious former squat that is now an alternative nightlife venue
in the style of Berlin, the award-winning new Vander Urbani Hotel
with a rooftop plunge pool overlooking the rooftops of the old city,
and Hostel Celica, budget accommodation in what was previously a
military prison, bars on the doors and all.
What
hits first-timers to Ljubljana is how easy it is to get to – and
how relaxed the vibe is. Nearly everyone seems to speak English and
have time for a coffee or a beer in this old city full of vibrant
young people (the average age is just 30).
Many
of those sitting at the cafes this sunny afternoon are heading off to
a free open-air classical music performance (one of many held during
summer). Most have arrived on foot or by bike, this being a very
environmentally friendly city.
Ljubljana
is easy to get around - and the old city is mercifully quiet with all
motor vehicles banned; except for motorised golf carts that transport
the old and infirm. It also feels very safe and that free wi-fi is
invaluable for those who wish to Tweet, Facebook and Instagram their
experiences.
The iconic Ljubljana
Castle, with elements dating back to the 12th and 15th centuries,
towers over the city and is most easily reached via a funicular
railway with its base in Krek's Square. The castle offers
spectacular views for those willing to climb a few stairs to the
belvedere tower.
The
National Museum of Slovenia was founded in 1821 and is also worth a
visit, but Ljubljana, with its mix of Baroque and Art Nouveau
architecture, is also a city that rewards the casual stroller or
cyclists, who can get
around on a bike using the Bicikelj bike-sharing system.
Walk or cycle along the
banks of the Ljubljanica River and admire arts and crafts that local
artists sell from makeshift stalls. I picked up some delightful
pottery figures by Igor Spreizer, who describes himself as an
“outsider artist”.
Visit the outdoor and
indoor parts of the central market to buy some local gourmet treats,
or pick up a boat at the Breg Riverbank in the city and enjoy a
relaxing river cruise past many of the city’s major sites (make
sure to see the historic Dragon Bridge and the Triple bridges, the
centre-point of the old city).
Regular guided tours
featuring all the city's highlights depart from in front of the Town
Hall and are conducted in Slovenian and English. Also make time to
visit Tivoli Park, which extends right into the city and is home to
several museums and galleries.
One thing is certain:
visitors will eat heartily in Ljubljana. The locals are fond of
sausages, schnitzels and other warming Central European dishes, while
breads, cakes, soups and dumplings all play major roles on local
menus.
Try the historic
restaurant Spajza (eat inside in one of several small rooms, or
outside in a delightful garden) for dishes including an appetiser of
cheek of young colt (maybe not for everyone but horse is a staple in
Slovenia, along with boiled beef tongue and frog legs).
More mainstream choices
are smoked trout with horseradish terrine and veal medallions with
local mushrooms (another staple). Also make time for some struklji,
local dumplings made in over 80 different styles, both sweet and
savoury, but typically using cottage cheese or baked apples.
If
time is tight, a range of Slovenian dishes and drinks can be enjoyed
at the “Open Kitchen” Market (left), an al fresco market held every
Friday at Pogačarjev trg next to the river.
Wine lovers will enjoy
the Vinoteka Movia wine bar and the Dvorni, both ideal places to
sample a range of local wines (there are three separate wine regions
in Slovenia, while other good eating options include TODZ Cafe,
Compa, AS Aperitivno, JB, Taverna Tatjana and the quite touristy but
very welcoming Julija.
For
suggestions, grab hold of a copy of the English language booklet
Taste
Ljubljana,
which
traces
the history of cuisine in the city and surrounding areas, with
stories behind individual dishes, and their recipes, or join a visit
to several foodie spots organised by Ljubljana Food Tour
(www.sloveniaguides.si)
for E35.
Each year the city
hosts over 10,000 cultural events and Ljubljana is home to 14
museums, 45 galleries, 10 theatres and four professional orchestras
but is far from staid. There is a lively ambiance just about
everywhere you go and you are just as likely to find a Deep Purple or
rap concert as an opera performance. Ljubljana has been accurately
described as “a small city with the facilities of a metropolis”.
Ljubljana is within a
few hours drive of major cities including Venice, Munich, Vienna and
Zagreb, making it a short side trip for anyone visiting neighbouring
Italy, Croatia, Austria or Hungary, while the surrounding countryside
ranges from snow-capped peaks to wild green-blue rivers, with a short
coastline on the Adriatic sea. Something for everyone.
How to get there
Emirates
flies from Australia to Dubai 84 times per week, with daily onward
connections to 35 European destinations. 1300 303 777 or
www.emirates.com/au
Where
to stay
Probably
the funkiest address is the Vander Urbani Resort in the heart of the
old town (pictured below) www.vanderhotel.com.
A
good budget option outside the city centre is the modern Plaza Hotel
www.plazahotel.si.
Essential
reading
Head
to
www.slovenia.info
or www.visitljubljana.com
for up-to-date local info.
# The author was assisted by Visit Slovenia and the Plaza Hotel. This is a version of a story that originally appeared in Sunday Life magazine.
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