The centre of the Burgundy wine trade – midway between
Paris and Geneva - the pretty town of Beaune is a place of pilgrimage for gourmets and is dotted with wine bars, cafes, tasting facilities and
boutique hotels.
In my humble opinion it is the best little wine capital anywhere; serious about wine and food - and surrounded by some of the greatest vineyards in the world.
The world’s greatest chardonnays and pinots noir
come from this region; stretching from Chablis in the north
to just above Lyon in the south. The greatest wines from producers like Domaine de
la Romanee-Conti are stratospherically priced but there are
plenty of more affordable bottles to taste and buy.
Chablis produces dry, minerally chardonnays while
the long thin strip encompassing the Cote d’Or and Cote de Nuits produce the
world’s best pinots and some superbly complex chardonnays from villages
including Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet.
Pinot lovers are spoilt for choice with producers
in communes including Pommard, Volnay, Nuits St George and Chambolle-Musigny
all offering tastings while further south more affordable reds and whites are produced in the Cote Chalonaise and the Maconnais regions; with St Veran offering
particularly good value.
Centrally-situated Beaune is almost certainly the best base for wine tourists.Take a ride
on the ubiquitous petit train with tourists from around the world to discover the many winding old streets and then
take a tour of the magnificent Hospice de Beaune, where the original
hospital building, the Hotel Dieu (below), is one of the finest remaining examples of
French 15th-century architecture and is now a fascinating museum.
Wine lovers will also enjoy the MuseƩ du Vin de Bourgogne and browsing
for wine posters, books, corkscrews and other accessories at the L’Athenaeum
store, while the outdoor Saturday food market
here is legendary. Taste wines
at Alex Gambal or Camille Giroud and spend a night or two in the Hotel Le Cep, a
collection of 14th-18th century buildings that is part of Small Luxury Hotels
group and a perfect base for exploring the many vineyard hamlets. It’s at
27 Rue Maufoux in the old town centre but within strolling distance of the vines.
27 Rue Maufoux in the old town centre but within strolling distance of the vines.
The
hotel (above) is close to the Basilique
Notre Dame and the Hospices de Beaune. There are 64 air-conditioned guest rooms, charmingly decorated in
traditional French style. The on-site Loiseau des Vignes restaurant features
dozens of wines by the glass thus providing the perfect solution for
anyone wanting to sample great Burgundies without breaking the bank. Other stellar dining choices include
L’Ecusson, Ma Cuisine, Le Goret and the cute Le Gourmandin.
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