Yelland & Papps: Letting the vineyard do the talking

Following a surprise visit to Glenside's notorious Z Ward, where the South Australian National Trust was holding a wine fair in the spooky cells of the former mental asylum, guest contributor, Roderick Eime, met with Susan Yelland of boutique Barossa winemakers, Yelland & Papps, where the pair were showcasing some of their delicious reds and whites. 

He asked Susan to highlight a couple of her favourite vintages, to which she said the philosophy behind Yelland & Papps wines is to let the vineyard speak for itself.

Their single-vineyard Stonewell Shiraz is deliberately crafted as a brighter, more expressive interpretation of Barossa shiraz. 

"We're probably trying to make a more expressive, fruit-driven, easier-drinking style of shiraz from the Barossa."

Whole-bunch fermentation builds fragrance and texture, while the use of only seasoned oak avoids masking the fruit, resulting in a lighter, more aromatic and approachable style that showcases the vineyard rather than the winemaking.

The winery's passion for Rhône varieties is equally evident in its grenache. 

"Grenache, we love grenache. We are very focused on Rhône-style varietals."

Sourced from a pristine 60-year-old vineyard on the sandy soils of Vine Vale, the fruit is harvested in two stages. 

The earlier pick contributes lifted aromatics and delicate Turkish Delight notes, while the later harvest brings structure, tannin and depth across the palate. Together they create a balanced, layered wine that reflects both the character of the old vines and the Barossa landscape.

Rather than chasing mass-market distribution, Yelland & Papps focuses on independent wine merchants and quality restaurants, where wines with authenticity and a strong sense of place are most appreciated.

Bicknell exits Oakridge after 24 1/2 years

David Bicknell, one of Australia's finest and most influential winemakers, has been cut lose by Endeavour Group, owners of Yarra Valley winery Oakridge.

Bicknell, who has headed operations at Oakridge for almost a quarter of a century, announced the split on social media. 

He is a chardonnay maestro and an inspiration to many in the wine industry. 

"Well, that’s it," Bicknell wrote. "After nearly 24 and a half years, my time Oakridge Wines has come to an end.

"It’s been an amazing ride, taking what was broken winery to the top of the industry with an unwavering commitment to quality and plenty of hard graft. Some really good times with some really good people.

"They say you never know you’re going to get boned until you do. And so it is. Thankfully, I leave a highly trained, capable and talented team for the next piece of history. Your support for them would mean a lot to me."

Bicknell was Gourmet Traveller Winemaker of the Year (2017), is a past Dux of the Len Evans Tutorial (2005) and co-founder of the Victorian Pinot Noir Workshop (2002).

He is a senior wine show judge with 20 years of experience across both regional, capital city shows and was the Chairman of Judges for the National Wine show of Australia from 2019 to 2023.

After completing winemaking studies at Roseworthy College in 1993, Bicknell joined De Bortoli Wines in the Yarra.

After a 10-year tenure, which included added winemaking stints in Burgundy (Louis Latour), Alsace (Paul Blanck) and Beaujolais (Chateau Bluizard), he took over at Oakridge Wines in 2002, establishing the producer among Australia's best.

Oakridge was named the number one winery in Australia by both the Halliday Wine Companion and  Real Review in 2023.

He and partner Nicky Harris have operated side project Bicknell FC since 2011.

Anantara celebrates 25 years with culinary experiences

 

The Anantara Hotels & Resorts group is marking 25 years with a selection of signature culinary experiences. 

The options range from Sri Lanka’s spice trails to the rice fields of Vietnam. 

The feasts will celebrate the quarter of a century since the brand was founded in Thailand as the experiential luxury brand of Minor Hotels. 

Across three Asian destinations – Sri Lanka, Thailand and Vietnam – the brand responds to what the Minor Hotels Travel Trends Report 2026 confirms: food is the primary gateway to culture for most travellers.

At Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort on the south coast of Sri Lanka, Mama’s Kitchen explores local culinary secrets and village cooking culture with the resort’s local mama. 

Guests participate in the preparation, hand-grinding spices and stewing slow-cooked curries, in the kamatha kitchen situated in the resort’s paddy field, learning the role each ingredient plays and the stories that accompany them.

At sister property Anantara Kalutara Resort, guests partner with the resort’s culinary team for the '25 Spices Table', an exploration of 25 indigenous herbs and spices, each used in the preparation of traditional local curries and each with an intriguing history. 

At Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, executive chef Punn Akkawin teaches guests how to create Thai dishes full of colour and flavour. The experience begins with a morning market visit to select the fresh produce and aromatics that will define the meal. Guests return to The Spice Market, a Bangkok institution with more than 40 years of history in the Thai capital, to prepare three dishes under the chef’s guidance to enjoy for lunch.

In Vietnam, rice is central to culture. Anantara Quy Nhon Villas takes guests into the countryside to meet the families who keep centuries-old traditions alive. 

The first stop is a family where rice paper making is still practised by hand. Here, guests can learn each delicate step of the process, demonstrated and shared. This continues with a visit to a second family for a tasting of traditional rice wine. The experience closes back at the resort, where guests create their own rice wine cocktails while overlooking the ocean.

The route between Quy Nhon and Hoi An is an experience in its own right. The Vietage by Anantara train connects the two destinations in style, with locally sourced provisions on board, such as strawberries from Đà Lạt, regional teas and locally produced gins that reflect the landscape en route.

At Anantara Hoi An Resort, the Taste of Hoi An street food experience carries the narrative forward through the dishes that define the town.

Anantara’s signature anniversary experiences, including those featured above, are available across the brand’s portfolio throughout 2026. Each is specific to its destination. 

Explore the full collection at anantara.com/en/25th-anniversary-experiences

Wok on: Devonport kitchen spices up winter

It can be seriously cold in Tasmania over winter - but one Devonport eatery is heating things up with its hot wok dishes. 

Mr Good Guy is warming up the north-west coast by championing the wok as the ultimate cold-weather kitchen remedy until the end of August. 

High heat, bold scents and sizzling sauces from chef Muhammad (Momo) Fadly aim to lock in the flavour and warmth with different wok dishes rotating weekly throughout the season. 

The restaurant’s Winter Wok menu features dishes including fragrant Phad Kra Pa Moo, comforting La Na, wok-flamed Bò Lúc Lắc and fiery Mie Aceh. 

The Winter Wok dishes sit alongside Mr Good Guy’s signature favourites of pork belly bao, hawker-style plates designed for sharing, and the restaurant’s take on classics like sweet and sour pork.  

Located on Devonport’s waterfront inside Novotel Devonport, Mr Good Guy has been serving south-east Asian inspired food and cocktails since opening in 2022. 

Phad Kra Pao Moo is wok-tossed pork with Thai holy basil, garlic and chilli, finished in a fragrant oyster-soy glaze, while Lad Na, also from Thailand, stars wide rice noodles layered with meat and Chinese broccoli in a savoury gravy. 

Bò Lúc Lắc, translated as “Shaking Beef”, is a Vietnamese dish with wok-flamed beef cubes tossed with garlic and cracked pepper, finished with fresh herbs and a lime dipping sauce, while Mie Aceh is spicy Acehnese noodles tossed with prawns and slow-cooked beef, infused with aromatic spices, lifted with fresh lime and crispy shallots. 

* Novotel Devonport is Devonport's premium 4-star hotel in the heart of the city. See https://mrgoodguy.com.au/whatson/winter-wok-spice-up-your-off-season/

Accor banking on Vietnam destinations

Leading global hotel operator Accor is very keen on the future of tourism in Vietnam. 

Accor and Sun Group, one of Vietnam's leading real estate and tourism developers, have strengthened a long-standing partnership with the signing of a strategic portfolio deal that will see the development of more than 5,300 rooms over the next five years.

Located in key destinations, including Phu Quoc and Danang, the new properties include hotels, resorts and serviced residences. 

Several Accor brands will also be introduced to the Vietnam market for the very first time including Sofitel Serviced Residences, Swissôtel Living and TRIBE as well as Ennismore's fashion-driven lifestyle brand SO/. 

The expanded partnership will also further strengthen the presence of established brands such as MGallery, Grand Mercure and ibis Styles.

Sébastien Bazin, Accor chairman and Chief Executive Officer, said: “Vietnam has emerged as one of Asia's most dynamic destinations, and this milestone agreement reflects both the strength of our partnership with Sun Group and our shared ambition to shape the long-term evolution of Vietnam's tourism sector. 

“We remain focused on expanding our network in destinations that offer travellers more meaningful ways to connect with the culture and natural beauty of the country. These developments will bring a diverse mix of brands and experiences to market, creating new opportunities for tourism and contributing to Vietnam's continued growth on the global stage."

Dang Minh Truong, chairman of the Board of Directors, Sun Group, was equally optimistic, saying: “Sun Group has been committed to creating world-class destinations that celebrate Vietnam's identity and unlock the tourism potential of remarkable places across the country. 

“This landmark agreement with Accor marks an important step in that journey. By bringing Accor's diverse hospitality ecosystems and new experiences to Vietnam, we are not only elevating hospitality standards but also enhancing the attractiveness and competitiveness of our destinations, generating economic opportunities, and contributing to the sustainable growth of Vietnam's tourism industry."

The first phase of the portfolio includes Bana Hills Hotel Danang - MGallery Collection; Ruby Beach Hotel - MGallery Collection, SO/ Phu Quoc Ruby Beach, Grand Mercure Phu Quoc Ruby Beach, TRIBE Hon Thom Phu Quoc and ibis Styles Hon Thom Phu Quoc. 

Leading California wine regions at risk

Global warming and increasing wildfire risk threaten viability of elite wine-growing regions in California - but others may boom, a new report says. 

Mendocino and Monterey could become increasingly favourable for premium vintages under shifting climate patterns, while Napa and Sonoma may face increased pressure in grape cultivation. 

The US is the fourth-largest wine-producing country by output volume, and approximately 80% of its production occurs in California. 

Since the 19th century, California’s premier wine-growing regions have been the Napa Valley and Sonoma County, thanks to their favourable microclimates. 

But grape yield and quality are very sensitive to the local environment, which means that the climate crisis could shake up California’s wine industry. 

The new study shows that established regions including Napa and Sonoma could struggle to sustain their wine production under severe climate change. Others, like northern and coastal California, could become new wine-growing powerhouses.

“Our findings reveal that the outlook for Mendocino and Monterey is uniquely promising because of a dual trend: they are projected to experience both increasing climatic suitability for wine-growing and a decrease in extreme fire-weather days,” said Dr Yusuke Hiraga, an assistant professor at Tohoku University in Sendai, Japan, and author of the study in Frontiers in Climate. 

“This combination makes these areas stand out as comparatively favourable expansion zones, distinct from many other regions with either rising suitability alongside increased wildfire weather or declining suitability

Together with Takuya Matsumoto, a masters student at Tohoku University, Hiraga modeled California’s current and future climatic suitability for wine grape cultivation. 

They focused on 379 wine-growing locations listed in the California Wine Institute, predominantly in the North Coast region and across the Central Coast.

To forecast climate change, the authors mapped projections from global climate models onto a 4km-by-4km grid across the mainland US. 

They also considered alternative carbon emission scenarios. 

The authors likewise modelled the shifting weather conditions linked to wildfire risk and expected severity within each cell. 

The results showed that the suitability of currently important wine-growing regions, like Napa, Sonoma, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Barbara, is likely to decline strongly under severe climate change. 

In contrast, suitability was predicted to increase greatly in Mendocino, Monterey, and in central to southern coastal areas. 

“While our study highlights long-term shifts in climatic and fire-weather suitability through the end of the century, it does not attempt to predict a specific timeline for when emerging areas will surpass currently established regions in wine-growing potential,” Hiraga said. 

“Such a precise forecast is complex, as the future of viticulture is shaped not only by climate change and wildfire weather but also by a wide array of anthropogenic factors.”

For more info, here is the original research  article: https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/climate/articles/10.3389/fclim.2026.1838268/full