Star chef opens low-key new Thai eatery and bar

 

Talented chef Aaron Turner has opened a new restaurant/dive bar in Geelong.

The pan handler who was behind the former previously two-hatted Igni, and acclaimed Thai eatery Songbird has thrown open the doors to The Snake Pit, a casual Thai venue in buzzy Little Malop Street in the heart of the CBD. 

He sold his Tacos y Liqour business earlier this year and his new venue is small and low key. 

Turner is serving up dishes like flame-licked crying tiger beef with tangy nam jim jaew dipping sauce, as well as house-made sai oua, the northern Thai sausage.

I first encountered Turner almost two decades ago when he was running the outstanding Loam eatery outside Geelong. He's travelled a bit since, including a spell in Nashville.   

With stints at NOMA and El Celler de Can Roca on his CV, his food is always inspiring. 

Pedestrianised Little Malop Street precinct has enjoyed a number of new openings in recent months including French restaurant Lalou Bistro a Vin, Gelato Messina, Honky Cat Saloon and RUNE Pizza.

The Snake Pit is open for lunch Friday to Sunday, and dinner Wednesday to Sunday. It is at 87 Little Malop Street, Geelong

Academics aim to solve NOLO wine conundrum

Academics at the University of Queensland are on a mission to solve the issue of why no- and low-alcohol wines do not taste like full-strength wines. 

Queensland Alliance for Agriculture and Food Innovation PhD candidate Huanhuan Li said there was a substantial sensory gap between NOLO and traditional wines, with aroma a major contributor to both quality and acceptance.

She is on a quest to identify key aroma compounds that could make no- and low-alcohol (NOLO) wine more attractive to drinkers.

Li and project leader Professor Heather Smyth say: “Reducing alcohol content changes a wine’s sensory characteristics considerably.

“It seems that important volatile aroma compounds are lost or altered during the dealcoholisation process.

“Combining chemical analysis with sensory evaluation is helping us determine which compounds are reduced or missing in NOLO wines.”

QAAFI recruited regular white wine drinkers to determine if adding compounds identified by chemical analysis to NOLO wines improved the perceived vinosity of the drinks.

“Vinosity, or wine-likeness, is an important concept in our research because it describes how closely the aroma of a NOLO product resembles that of conventional wine,” Li said.

“We needed people familiar with white wine and what a typical white wine should smell like.

“We asked them to assess whether restoring the aroma compounds increased the perceived wine-likeness, as well as fruitiness and overall consumer acceptance of the NOLO wine.”

Following the chemical and sensory analysis, microbial and fermentation strategies are being used to try to naturally increase the production of the aroma compounds in NOLO wine.

Smyth said consumer interest in NOLO wines had grown rapidly in recent years.

“Driven by health and wellness trends and a desire to moderate alcohol consumption, there is increasing demand for products that deliver the flavour and aroma of traditional wine without the alcohol,” she said.

This research was funded by Wine Australia and also involves the Australian Institute for Bioengineering and Nanotechnology.

New eatery brings a taste of Japan to a Redfern rooftop

The Wunderlich Lane precinct in inner Sydney is fast becoming one of the city's hottest foodie districts.

Off Baptist St, where Surry Hills meets Redfern, there are an increasing number of choices for discerning diners.

Tenjo, a 100-seat rooftop izakaya from the Orkhestra group, will open on Monday, November 16, on the rooftop of the Eve Hotel.

Meaning “ceiling” in Japanese, Tenjo takes its name from its location, with a retractable roof open to the sky.

“Japan has been a big part of our story as a group, from opening Cho Cho San twelve years ago to The Apollo in Ginza 10 years ago," says Jonathan Barthelmess, owner and operator of Orkhestra.

"We’ve spent a lot of time in Japan, which has shaped the way we think about food, hospitality and the feeling of a place. But Tenjo isn’t about recreating Japan. It’s our own expression of that influence, shaped by Redfern: open, a little raw and full of energy. 

"We wanted it to feel like it belongs here, with enough edge to draw you in and enough ease to keep you there.” 

The menu from head chef Fredy Lim is rooted in Japanese cooking traditions. Sushi is prepared in front of guests at the counter, while the kitchen centres on yakimono, tempura and seasonal donabe rice.

“In Japan, an izakaya is a place to unwind and gather over drinks after a hard day’s work," Lim says. "With Tenjo, we wanted to capture that authentic spirit and build a vibrant atmosphere where you can come for a drink and a few snacks or enjoy dinner with friends, exceptional service and great energy.” 

Created by bartender Matt Whiley, the cocktail list takes 10 of Japan’s most prized ingredients and reimagines them through familiar classics. The Yuzu slushie and Sudachigimlet sit alongside a Shine Muscat grape martini, a Kabosumargarita with matcha and coconut oil, and drinks featuring momo peach and Yubari King melon. 

Japanese whisky also features. 

“Japanese ingredients can be unfamiliar, but I wanted the list to feel welcoming and easy to explore," Whiley says.

"We’ve connected them to classic cocktails so there’s something recognisable to start with, and hopefully something new to discover."

There is sake list, while wines range from aromatic whites and umami-driven skin-contact wines to rosé and chilled reds.

The restaurant will be open 5pm-late Monday to Wednesday, and open for lunch and dinner from 12pm until late Thursday-Sunday. 

 In December, the venue will be open everyday for lunch and dinner, except Christmas Day. 

See https://www.orkhestra.com.au/venues/tenjo

Images: Ethan Smart

Taste some of the best of the Tamar at one venue

If you love cool-climate wine and happen to be in Tasmania this weekend then you are in luck.

Many of the top producers from the north of the state will be offering their wares for tasting on Saturday at the Exeter Showgrounds in the Tamar Valley.

After a successful inaugural event in 2025, Taste the Tamar returns.

The event is Once again organised by Tamar Valley Wine - with support from the West Tamar Council and Visit Northern Tasmania.

"We’re coming back bigger and better to sip, taste and celebrate the very best of the Tamar Valley," organisers say.

The event runs from 11:30am to 6:30pm with entry $20 plus booking fee.

A reusable $5 tasting glass will be available to purchase on site.

A range of masterclasses will also be on offer including Launceston Gastronomy' Wine and Food Pairing, and Pinot Noir and Chocolate: The Perfect Pairing

Wineries big and small will be on site, including sparkling specialists Clove Hill and Jansz, as well as Velo, Dalrymple, Grey Sands, Small Wonder, Moores Hill and Westella.

There will be wide range of food stalls on site and a program of live music acts

 

See https://www.tamarvalleywine.com.au/taste-the-tamar

Melbourne's new bar "for when you are not ready to go home"

Melbourne has no shortage of late-night drinking spots but here comes another one. 

edition Group will open Back of House on Friday night, Friday the 13th. 

It is promoted as a venue that pairs vinyl spinning DJs with noughties-classic cocktails with an Italian edge, and the kind of food chefs eat after a night out.

Back of House is tucked down Mornane Lane behind Florentino, off Bourke Street in the Melbourne CBD in the space previously home to Arlechin. 

Rebecca Yazbek, founder and CEO of edition Group, is upbeat about the new opening. 

“We wanted to add some mischief to the area," she says. "Florentino is about tradition and Back of House is the other side of that - the place you end up when you’re not ready to go home. 

"Melbourne is such a lively city, and we’re excited to add a late-night spot that’s fun and unpretentious, with great music, and drinks and food you actually want at midnight.”

The fitout is by Melbourne design studio Foolscap Studio, led by Adele Winteridge. 

The centrepiece is one long bar with an integrated DJ booth. 

DJs will perform from 6pm Thursday to Sunday, with the weekly line-up posted on Instagram. The records, curated by Fitzroy’s Plug Seven Records, range from soul to boogie with a sprinkle of Italo disco (oh dear!). 

edition’s group bars manager Felix Woods has drawn on the cocktails of the early 2000s for the drinks list, which follows the shape of a night out across four sections: Knock Off, Sit Back, Kick On and Wind Down.

“The inspiration behind the drinks is noughties classics with an Italian edge, bright and fun, simple construction with big, bold flavours. They’re drinks made for the dance floor. Drinks that drive a wedge between work and play,” said Woods.

In the kitchen, edition’s group culinary director Michael Greenlaw has built a menu "that’s fun, a little indulgent, generous and made for sharing".

“The menu is inspired by the food chefs enjoy after a night out, heavy on the cheese, big on the chilli and with a good amount of deep frying, says Greenlaw. "There’s even an ice cream sandwich with a completely unnecessary amount of whipped cream.” 

Sweet toothed patrons certainly might enjoy the Strawberry Campari Ice Cream Sandwich (above), while an early menu favourite of the Back of House team is deep-fried lasagne. 

It sits alongside saffron prawn toast with parsley, lemon and citrus salt; crispy mozzarella ravioli with vodka sauce; osso buco croquettes with gremolata; tinned fish with garlic bread, and fries with ‘pizza’ seasoning and pecorino.

For something more substantial there’s a meatball ciabatta with San Marzano tomato, basil pesto and lots of cheese. 

Back of House will be open from 5pm-1am Sunday to Thursday and 5pm-3am Friday-Saturday. No bookings, walk-ins only. For more information visit boh.melbourne 

New tour combines cycling and barging the lagoons of Venice

Is Venice on your bucket list? 

New for the 2027 season, UTracks has launched a summer-only bike and boat holiday through the islands and waterways of Venice aboard a fully air-conditioned electric barge.

The eight-day Venetian Islands Bike & Boat Premium Electric holiday combines cycling, island hopping and relaxed cruising through the fishing villages and waterways of the Venetian Lagoon.

Days are spent on mainly flat paths and quiet roads, exploring Burano, Murano, Pellestrina and Sant’Erasmo. There is also time to swim in the Adriatic or stretch out on a sandy beach.

Travellers spend seven nights aboard the Ave Maria Portegrandi, a modern electric barge designed for quieter, lower-emission cruising. 

With a maximum of 24 guests, it features a panoramic saloon, outdoor sundeck and onboard dining showcasing traditional Italian dishes and regional ingredients.

UTracks general manager Kate Baker said the trip offers a different way for Australians to enjoy one of Europe's most popular destinations.

“Europe is still hugely appealing at this time of year, but travellers are far more conscious of the heat and how it affects their holiday,” Baker said.

“With this itinerary, you can explore Venice's colourful islands by bike, stop for a swim in the Adriatic and return to the comfort of your floating accommodation.”

Departures will run from June 26 to August 14 with English-speaking tour leaders. 

https://www.utracks.com/Italy/Bike-Barge/Venetian-Islands-Bike-Boat-Premium-Electric